ImageCredit...Chris Simpson for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Eleni Pappas.

In the Palatinate region of Germany, fields and fields of cornstalks frame the old narrow roads that connect the various villages and towns. Most of that corn goes to animal feed, not humans. “Lucky animals,” a corn-bred Southerner like me might think, but according to my fiancé’s great-aunt Margit, who hosted us for part of the summer, German maize is starchy seed corn destined for pigs, cows and chickens and not the plump, primrose sweet corn or the bags of frozen kernels that line grocery stores in America year round.

The reason we eat the foods we eat can often feel arbitrary; you may have to look at them from a different vantage point to find their beauty. Raised in Georgia on the corniest casseroles, stuffings, breads and salads, I hadn’t realized how much I’d taken corn for granted, which is a shame because it’s so great. It’s corn!

If you’re John and Becky Altobelli of Kinderhook, N.Y., it’s easy to see corn’s beauty. On their family farm, the Altobellis grow a locally beloved corn that’s not just sweet but also full of flavor, the kind of singular taste one can describe only if you’ve had it. Fresh sweet corn, aromatic, savory and chamomile yellow, is less a constant for me than it is a seasonal treat, occasional sparks that have, over the years, made me go, “Oh, that’s what corn tastes like.”

Recipe: Mayo Corn Fried Rice

If you’re in the business of corn, as the Altobellis are, the best way to preserve a taste this fleeting is by freezing it. They’ve got the method down pat: Boil whole, shucked corn cobs for just a few minutes, until their pale color sets into a brilliant yellow. (Freezing raw kernels works just fine, but according to the University of Minnesota, boiling them first prevents bacterial growth during the freezing process and inactivates enzymes that would otherwise deteriorate the color, texture and flavor.) Chill the blanched corn in an ice bath, then set it aside to dry. Cut the kernels off the cob, then rinse and drain them well. Scoop them into freezer bags, press out as much air as you can and freeze. Account for about seven ears per quart bag.

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